I really have no idea what message the copy-editor was trying to convey when, of all the effusive praise they could have picked from the article, they chose as their headline a simile about 'chips' and 'Brits in Benidorm' (while omitting the sentence that immediately follows: 'They're soft, salty and beautiful'), but The Fisherman's Table gets a very good write-up in today's MEN as well.
I would have posted the link as-is, but even that includes the text that compares the chips to Brits abroad. So here's the link, but with a slight revision, where I've selected one of the many positive sentences from it:
Garlic focaccia croutons bob like buoys on top. It's a knockout.Mrs bd and I paid a visit at Christmas, just after it had opened. We thought it was terrific.