Most consumer grade routers are pretty terrible, and VM's Superhubs are no exception. I've been with whatever flavour of company services Marple (Nynex, Cable & Wireless, NTL, Virgin - they all use the same infrastructure, they just bought the forerunner out) for 20 years and in my opinion, as someone who works in IT, the best thing to do is put your Superhub into modem mode and run your own router because in British houses, with lots of brick walls, for a good wifi signal all over the property, you often need more than one access point or to put the single point in the middle of the proerty. Most times, it's just sitting by the wall where teh cable enters the house, or is next to the TV.
Before you even consider wifi, the best thing to do is run cable, ethernet is best. If you can't do that, but have coaxial cable for TVs in the house you can use something called a MOCA adapter. Both standards can give gigabit speeds over short (domestic length) runs of cable. That sort of speed isn't needed in most domestic environments but actual physical wires give you the best networking experience in terms of interference reduction and reliability.
If you can't or don't want to run cable, the best domestic wireless solution is often a mesh system where you have access points around the house and they swamp the area giving you coverage everywhere you need it. In the past, I have run three mesh points in my 1880s brick property over four floors and got an excellent signal everywhere. There are a number of mesh systems out there but eero and Google Wifi are pretty good systems for home users. Nowadays, I use semi-pro Ubiquity gear, but that's not necessary for most people.
For wireless you have two flavours, 5GHz and 2.4GHz. 5GHz is faster but has shorter range that doesn't travel well through brick, whereas 2,4GHz is slower but with a longer range. Modern wireless systems often have the choice of two networks with similar names, but some also have the ability force devices onto a specific frequency. Generally streaming media devices for TV are best on 5GHz as long as they are in decent range of the access point and anything that's not so bandwidth critical can go on 2.4GHz. You might also find that lots of devices on 2.4GHz, along with bluetooth devices and badly-behaved microwave ovens can cause poor signal.
The other thing to think about is what channel your wifi is on. If your neighbours are using the same channel (in this UK these are generally 1, 6 or 11 for 2.4GHz) as your network, that can also cause interference. Most modern wifi systems negotiate with each other and choose the most appropriate channel when setting themselves up. 5GHz, with shorter range, is less prone to interference. You can use an app (such as Wifiman by Ubiquity
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ubnt.usurvey&hl=en_US) to see what the wifi envirinment is around your property.
Finally, you could always use powerline adapters, which plug into your mains and use your electrical wiring as a communications network. These are generally slower than modern wireless systems and, depending on how the wiring is organised in your house can give you anything from 10Mbps (very slow) to 150Mbps (so-so) but are pretty stable and modern ones are relatively decent at filtering out electrical noise. Bear in mind that most high-def streams are usually less than 4Mbps from services like iPlayer and Netflix, powerline can be a decent solution.
Also, the Virginmedia network, especially compared to ADSL-based networks, is exceptionally reliable. Even the modern "fibre" networks run over the old BT systems still use the old copper telephone wires from the cabinet to your house; the "fibre" part of the name is only fiber to the cabinet. Often these copper lines to the house are decades old limiting the speed to 80Mbps max. Cable TV systems have coax to the premises which means that potentially, they could run at up to 1Gbps. However, to be fair, no-one in a domestic environment, really needs much above 70Mbps for speed; it's generally the traffic density that matters. In terms of reliability, in the last 20 years, I've probably lost connectivity less than once per year, and most of those outages weren't the provider's fault. Often it's a power outage or a JCB that cause the problem, rather than a network misconfiguration.
Bit of a brain dump there, and not sure it makes complete sense, but it might be of some help.
